Resilienza ed Eccellenza: alla corte dell’Uva Longanesi – Bursôn | Consorzio Vini di Romagna
Mosaico di Vita | Consorzio Vini di Romagna
April 2021 | Wine

Resilience and Excellence: at the court of the Longanesi – Bursôn grape

The story of the Longanesi-Bursôn grape is an extraordinary tale of luck, will and talent

Several years passed before Antonio Longanesi, known as Bursôn – as the members of the Longanesi family were and still are called – could be amazed by the most unexpected glass of wine. In 1913, Antonio bought a property in Bagnacavallo, but it was only in 1920 that he noticed an old, unusual wild vine clinging to an oak on the edge of a roccolo (a wooded area on the edge of the agricultural land, used to stock up on wood or to hunt small birds). Antonio Longanesi was so impressed by the plant's resistance to fungal diseases, its unusual color and the size of the grapes that he decided to attempt vinifying it. An excellent wine had come out of the vat: it had a remarkable alcoholic component and was appreciated by the family and their friends. Antonio was not aware that he produced the first vintage of what would later be known as Bursôn.

A unique vine searching for its founder

Antonio Longanesi planted the first Longanesi vineyard in 1956 and was slowly followed by other producers, contributing to its gradual spread in the area surrounding Bagnacavallo. This territory does not particularly stand out for its altitude, quite the contrary. Winegrowing was done on the plains, leading enthusiasts and connoisseurs of Romagna wine to immediately think of Trebbiano and white wines, rather than an important red meant for aging like Bursôn. But the first excellent results, obtained in the cellar by enologist Sergio Ragazzini, convinced Daniele Longanesi, Antonio's grandson, to fight for the enhancement of this extraordinary vine together with a handful of other producers: in 1999, the “Consorzio Il Bagnacavallo” was founded. In 2000, the vine found by Antonio Longanesi in 1920 was registered in the Registro Nazionale delle Varietà di Vite (National Register of Grape Varieties) as the “Longanesi grape”, promptly named after its redeemer. This finally enabled the vine to find its place among the most important Italian varieties, preventing it from remaining permanently unknown. This remarkable result was possible thanks to the hard work of the “Consorzio Il Bagnacavallo”, the analysis performed by the ESAVE of Faenza and the DNA studies on the variety carried out at the Istituto Agrario di San Michele all'Adige. Both studies confirmed that, indeed, it was a unique variety, different from those that were known at the time.

This territory does not particularly stand out for its altitude, quite the contrary

Bagnacavallo: a bountiful land

The “Consorzio Il Bagnacavallo” aims to protect and promote not only Bursôn, but also all the typical products of the area: vinegar, honey, jams, spirits, San Michele cake, a typical Bagnacavallo dessert prepared in September, during the feast of the patron saint. Bagnacavallo is a place where the culture of bread and wine has produced exceptional gastronomic and wine products. After all, Bagnacavallo is located in the heart of a particularly fertile area, between the Senio and Lamone rivers, which served as a grain and wine reservoir for the troops stationed in Ravenna or headed to Gaul during the Roman period. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the plains and fields gave way to woods and marshes, as written in the deed of donation made by Liutprand, king of the Lombards, to the bishop of Faenza: 200 hectares of the Magnum Forestum. Man had to work for centuries in order to restore the agricultural grandeur that the territory once had during the Roman period. It was a long process but evidently a successful one given that Bagnacavallo and the surrounding areas were one of the richest and most fertile lands belonging to the noble family of the Este.

“Etichetta Blu” or “Etichetta Nera”?

A noble “fruit” of this territory, Bursôn is a deep wine, rich in aromas and flavors, and it can be enjoyed in two versions, both exclusively made with Longanesi grapes: Bursôn “Etichetta Blu” (or Blù di Bursôn) and Bursôn “Etichetta Nera”. The grapes used to produce “Etichetta Blu” undergo a carbonic maceration process. After that, the wine ages in oak barrels for at least 6 months followed by another 6 in the bottle, before it is launched on the market. On the other hand, Bursôn “Etichetta Nera” is a complex wine produced for at least 50% with dried grapes. It ages for at least 20 months, first in 5-hl tonneaux then in large barrels, followed by another 6 months in the bottle. The final results are different from one another. Blù di Bursôn or “Etichetta Blu” is a lively wine that stands out for its fruity hints of cherries and violet and is characterized by a spicy finish that makes it perfect with delicate meats or important first courses. Bursôn “Etichetta Nera” is a wine endowed with outstanding structure. Notes of chocolate, ripe fruit and licorice, together with the sharp tannin, make it stand out. It is the ideal pair to tasty main dishes such as roasted wild boar or roasted pork hock.